Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Wednesday, February 01, 2006
Backtrack to busride to Huaraz
The bus journey got delayed about an hour. A woman on the bus had complications and a few people on the bus were performing CPR to try to ressucitate her as the bus raced to the next hospital. The hostess, after the 18-year-old girl was delivered to the hospital, told us that she was being operated on and did not know if the girl was OK. Later on, I overheard the bus hostess talking to the driver about the girl in past tense. I think this is the first time I've seen someone die. I don't think I will ever forget how her dad wailed helplessly as the other passengers were frantically trying to ger her heart to beat.
Sunday, January 29, 2006
Mancora, Waiting another day to leave
I got up and packed so that I would be ready to go once I got my ticket. Sadly, no buses until the next day. Funny how things work out though. I started chatting with an English woman, Sophie, at the ticket office. We ended up hanging out all day. Both of us being single female travellers have difficulties joining in activities that need a companion. Like going to the beach for a swim. I'm quite glad to have had someone watch over my stuff as I went for a dip in the warm Pacific. I was also grateful that we were able to go to a club that evening and I was able to have that pisco sour after all! I also danced, which I love doing, but am quite friggin turned off by all my male dancing partners, who halfway through a song, would try to kiss my neck, and even after I push them away, would still ask me to go home with them. Sophie and I danced together a lot to avoid the dogs. But, I still had loads of fun. I met a really nice looking Peruvian but unfortunately, he was only 22.
I got back to the hotel around 1 am and the chubby, and might I add, pug ugly, dude opened the gates for me. An then tried to kiss me. I told him "no," pushed him away and walked by the main lobby and the TV blaring XXX porn and half ran to my room with him following me. I slammed the door and made sure that it was LOCKED, with a chair up against it as well.
This place is called the Sausalito Inn or Hostel or Hotel and was featured in the Rough Guide guide book. I wouldn't recommend this place to single female travellers.
I got back to the hotel around 1 am and the chubby, and might I add, pug ugly, dude opened the gates for me. An then tried to kiss me. I told him "no," pushed him away and walked by the main lobby and the TV blaring XXX porn and half ran to my room with him following me. I slammed the door and made sure that it was LOCKED, with a chair up against it as well.
This place is called the Sausalito Inn or Hostel or Hotel and was featured in the Rough Guide guide book. I wouldn't recommend this place to single female travellers.
Saturday, January 28, 2006
Mancora, Peru. Like White Rock beach but, warmer water
Mancora is a beach and surf town. The mains strip is mainly restaurants, craft stores or mini marts selling things you might have forgotten at home. The each has fine sand and almost no pebbles. Just a long stretch of green-blue.
Lining the beach are about 20 stalls offering a variety of seafood, fried food or pasta. At the north end of the beach, about 100 or so people are playing in the water. A little further south, that’s where all the surfers are. And that’s where I went to gawk at beautiful people. Sadly, not so good looking. Fit but nothing dashing. I had about 3 really young, fit guys hit on me though. Surfer dudes in the mid or early 20’s. One, I can’t actually hold a decent conversation in Spanish. Two, I’m not that casual where company needs no verbal conversation. A shame. Even the chubby dude at the hotel asked me out. I had to chuckle.
Most of the stores have grass thatched roofs and wooden posts. Little motorcycles with covered seats attached to it roam the strip, occasionally honking to attract customers. Looks like a tricycle-buggy. The weather was quite nice. You could go out in the day in a tank top and shorts but it cools down enough in the evening to wear light pants with your tank top, which is good because there are mosquitoes. Not too many but enough for me to be perturbed when my can of OFF ran out after I sprayed my legs. I now have a bite on my arm.
I was hoping to find a hostel where I would be able to meet some people so I can go out a night and try some Pisco Sour. Sadly, no. Well the night is still young. And there’s always the hotel dude. Yah… NO.
For dinner, I had a “quesadilla”. Some pita-like bread wrapped around lots of cheese. For those from BA, like UGI’s pizza but wrapped up. They also served “garlic bread.” Lots of butter, not so much garlic. Really, I wanted something light but I didn’t dare have salad, especially after my bout in Bolivia. This place was called Gecko. Nice atmosphere and the food that other people were having looked really good. I got the set dinner because it was cheaper. They even had Dido piping. I’m not a fan but after days and days of cumbia, it was a nice welcome.
Lining the beach are about 20 stalls offering a variety of seafood, fried food or pasta. At the north end of the beach, about 100 or so people are playing in the water. A little further south, that’s where all the surfers are. And that’s where I went to gawk at beautiful people. Sadly, not so good looking. Fit but nothing dashing. I had about 3 really young, fit guys hit on me though. Surfer dudes in the mid or early 20’s. One, I can’t actually hold a decent conversation in Spanish. Two, I’m not that casual where company needs no verbal conversation. A shame. Even the chubby dude at the hotel asked me out. I had to chuckle.
Most of the stores have grass thatched roofs and wooden posts. Little motorcycles with covered seats attached to it roam the strip, occasionally honking to attract customers. Looks like a tricycle-buggy. The weather was quite nice. You could go out in the day in a tank top and shorts but it cools down enough in the evening to wear light pants with your tank top, which is good because there are mosquitoes. Not too many but enough for me to be perturbed when my can of OFF ran out after I sprayed my legs. I now have a bite on my arm.
I was hoping to find a hostel where I would be able to meet some people so I can go out a night and try some Pisco Sour. Sadly, no. Well the night is still young. And there’s always the hotel dude. Yah… NO.
For dinner, I had a “quesadilla”. Some pita-like bread wrapped around lots of cheese. For those from BA, like UGI’s pizza but wrapped up. They also served “garlic bread.” Lots of butter, not so much garlic. Really, I wanted something light but I didn’t dare have salad, especially after my bout in Bolivia. This place was called Gecko. Nice atmosphere and the food that other people were having looked really good. I got the set dinner because it was cheaper. They even had Dido piping. I’m not a fan but after days and days of cumbia, it was a nice welcome.
Asian female travelling in Peru
I feel like a celebrity. People are usually curious and a bit in awe when I tell them I'm from Canada. Lots of Chifa's (Peruvian Chinese restaurants) try to convince me to eat in their establishment. People on the street would say hi to me in Japanese. I would shake my head "no" and then they would try Chinese. I would smile and tell them I'm from Canada. And then they would ask if I speak French. It's a bit of a game and all parties are usually smiling at the end. Not at all like some of the condescending attitude I recieved in Argentina. Maybe I should learn French. That would just blow their minds.
The art of peeing in the bathroom of a moving bus in South America (female version)
1. If you can hold it, do.
2. If not, wait until you really have to go, as to accumulate more liquid so you don't have to go again.
3. As you walk down the aisle, don't be afraid to grab onto the back of chairs, perhaps disturbing fellow passengers, in order to not be shaken off your feet by the erratic driving of the bus driver.
4. Once you reach the door, take a few deep breaths. This is the last chance for non-foul air for the next few nimutes.
5. Before you go in, take a deep breath and hold it for as long as possible when you're inside.
6. Once you're in, brace your back to the closest wall, bend down and roll up your pants to your knees. The floors are usually wet.
7. This will probably be a feat that will make you want to breathe. Bring an item of clothing, like a sleeve, up to your nose and breathe through the cloth. You might gag. Be thankful you have your sleeve. Repeat breathing technique as necessary.
8. Turn around, using the wall or handles for support, as you WILL sway with the movement of the bus.
9. Undo pants and assume squating position whilst holding onto the handles/walls with one hand. Best to keep a wide stride as to not let your pants drop onto the wet floor.
10. Do your business, trying to aim the best you can into the bowl.
11. If you didn't bring your own toilet paper, you will have to drip dry.
12. If you brought TP, try to rummage for it. Best to have taken it out and placed it in between your cleavage. Remember to hold on at all times.
13. Once finished, turn around, put your back to the wall and do up your pants.
14. There is no flushing mechanism. Toilet paper goes into a bin which you will have to pry open.
15. If you're lucky, there will be a faucet with water. Who knows how long its been stored on the bus though... I would opt to not wash and use my alcoholic sanitary gel when I return to my seat.
16. Roll pants back down. You may opt to do this after you leave the bathroom so you can breathe easily.
17. Leave bathroom. Take a few deep breaths as not breathing may have made you a bit dizzy.
18. Make your way back to yor seat without bumping into too many people.
2. If not, wait until you really have to go, as to accumulate more liquid so you don't have to go again.
3. As you walk down the aisle, don't be afraid to grab onto the back of chairs, perhaps disturbing fellow passengers, in order to not be shaken off your feet by the erratic driving of the bus driver.
4. Once you reach the door, take a few deep breaths. This is the last chance for non-foul air for the next few nimutes.
5. Before you go in, take a deep breath and hold it for as long as possible when you're inside.
6. Once you're in, brace your back to the closest wall, bend down and roll up your pants to your knees. The floors are usually wet.
7. This will probably be a feat that will make you want to breathe. Bring an item of clothing, like a sleeve, up to your nose and breathe through the cloth. You might gag. Be thankful you have your sleeve. Repeat breathing technique as necessary.
8. Turn around, using the wall or handles for support, as you WILL sway with the movement of the bus.
9. Undo pants and assume squating position whilst holding onto the handles/walls with one hand. Best to keep a wide stride as to not let your pants drop onto the wet floor.
10. Do your business, trying to aim the best you can into the bowl.
11. If you didn't bring your own toilet paper, you will have to drip dry.
12. If you brought TP, try to rummage for it. Best to have taken it out and placed it in between your cleavage. Remember to hold on at all times.
13. Once finished, turn around, put your back to the wall and do up your pants.
14. There is no flushing mechanism. Toilet paper goes into a bin which you will have to pry open.
15. If you're lucky, there will be a faucet with water. Who knows how long its been stored on the bus though... I would opt to not wash and use my alcoholic sanitary gel when I return to my seat.
16. Roll pants back down. You may opt to do this after you leave the bathroom so you can breathe easily.
17. Leave bathroom. Take a few deep breaths as not breathing may have made you a bit dizzy.
18. Make your way back to yor seat without bumping into too many people.
Trujillo, Peru
Cool city almost next to the beach with plenty of options for food. It was nice and warm and I even got sunburnt a little on the spot where I missed with the sun cream. The first thing I didn’t when I got to the hotel was jump in the shower and wash my clothes that I was wearing on the bus. Then I booked another full day tour to the Chan Chan complex and the Moche temple of the Moon. ($30 soles, not incl. Entrance fees).
Moche Temple of the Moon.
This was an entire city made out of adobe. There are 2 main sites: Temple of the Sun, which was off limits, and the Temple of the Moon. The Moche culture, at it’s glory between 400AD - 600AD, spanned over the current city of Trujillo and over to 2 mountains in the area.
The main temple is a pyramid made of solid adobe bricks with a flat platform at the top. Surrounding one side coming about halfway, were “rooms” where the priests used to throw sacrifices into. There ranged form food to crafts to pottery. Human sacrifices were made elsewhere. The art on the walls were with colours made form natural materials like plants or minerals. Different from the highland religions, the religious symbols had depictions of felines, snakes and sea animals. Perhaps the current Ripcurl brand of apparel borrowed its logos from some the art… Waves are tha prominent symbol.
In another area, not the temple, there are five layers of residence. They think that when one overlord died, the new one build another one on top. Another site close by had 11. All along the walls were paintings of warriors and priests and religious symbols in bright yellow, red, blue and black. Most bordered by waves.
There were no stairs to the original buildings. They used ramps, which may imply wheel technology, however, as they have no proof yet of that, it is all still speculation. This site is sponsored by various companies and the local university students are able to work on excavation the areas. Smart.
From the top of the solid pyramid, you can see the adobe remains of the city. They are only one story high and only some of the walls are still standing. Originally, they were painted in yellow and red, so imagine kilometres upon kilometres of red and yellow residences and shops almost illuminating the area with the bright colours. Natural weather phenomena’s caused the culture to move. They think the next culture that evolved was the one at the Chan Chan complex.
* Side Note. Hairless dogs. There were some residential dogs that lived on the complex. They only had a bit of hair on their tails an on their feet. Their skin was black, hot to the touch and had a leathery feel. Must be one of the ugliest animals I’ve ever seen. They’re about the size of a small golden retriever, minus the hair, of course. I think the only thing worse could be those hairless cats, and only because they’re cats.
The Chan Chan Complex
To quote my rather incorrect guide book, “Chan Chan was the capital city of the Chimu Empire, an urban civilization which appeared on the Peruvian coast around 1100 AD. By 1450, when the Chumu Empire stretched from the Rio Zarumilla in the north to the Rio Chancay in the south and covered 40,000 square kilometres, Chan Chan was the centre of a chain of provincial capitals. They were all gradually incorporated into the Inca Empire between 1460 and 1480.”
It is another city made out of adobe bricks but this culture used the mud for decoration as well. Fishnet styled patterns about 1 foot x 1 foot protrude from most of the walls like little cubby holes. The images were carved out of mud, making it 3D, and then painted. There was even a man-made rectangular lake built inside the complex. It took us one hour to go through the whole thing and this was only one temple. An area, for taxes and administration, of rooms and store rooms, mainly intact, spanned, it seemed for an entire square kilometre. No stairs either. All ramps. Fine for me and my 1.5 knees. The walls were, at the base, formed with bigger stones with adobe bricks built on top in a triangular fashion. Seismic technology. Very cool.
After Chan Chan, the tour bus took us t the beach close by. Not overly crowded and very laid back. I had to test the water. I walked down to the sandy beach, which was mostly devoid of pebbles, and let the wave splash onto my feet. With a yelp, I scampered away from the cold Pacific water.
That evening, I had more ceviche with an Argentine History professor I met on the tour. Can’t remember his name. Between his broken English and my broken Spanish, we managed to have interesting conversation. He lives in a neighbourhood in BA that I had never visited. Like the Mike in Cusco, he also asked me the same questions a few times. I’m assuming that words were lost in translation rather than him being too drunk to remember.
Moche Temple of the Moon.
This was an entire city made out of adobe. There are 2 main sites: Temple of the Sun, which was off limits, and the Temple of the Moon. The Moche culture, at it’s glory between 400AD - 600AD, spanned over the current city of Trujillo and over to 2 mountains in the area.
The main temple is a pyramid made of solid adobe bricks with a flat platform at the top. Surrounding one side coming about halfway, were “rooms” where the priests used to throw sacrifices into. There ranged form food to crafts to pottery. Human sacrifices were made elsewhere. The art on the walls were with colours made form natural materials like plants or minerals. Different from the highland religions, the religious symbols had depictions of felines, snakes and sea animals. Perhaps the current Ripcurl brand of apparel borrowed its logos from some the art… Waves are tha prominent symbol.
In another area, not the temple, there are five layers of residence. They think that when one overlord died, the new one build another one on top. Another site close by had 11. All along the walls were paintings of warriors and priests and religious symbols in bright yellow, red, blue and black. Most bordered by waves.
There were no stairs to the original buildings. They used ramps, which may imply wheel technology, however, as they have no proof yet of that, it is all still speculation. This site is sponsored by various companies and the local university students are able to work on excavation the areas. Smart.
From the top of the solid pyramid, you can see the adobe remains of the city. They are only one story high and only some of the walls are still standing. Originally, they were painted in yellow and red, so imagine kilometres upon kilometres of red and yellow residences and shops almost illuminating the area with the bright colours. Natural weather phenomena’s caused the culture to move. They think the next culture that evolved was the one at the Chan Chan complex.
* Side Note. Hairless dogs. There were some residential dogs that lived on the complex. They only had a bit of hair on their tails an on their feet. Their skin was black, hot to the touch and had a leathery feel. Must be one of the ugliest animals I’ve ever seen. They’re about the size of a small golden retriever, minus the hair, of course. I think the only thing worse could be those hairless cats, and only because they’re cats.
The Chan Chan Complex
To quote my rather incorrect guide book, “Chan Chan was the capital city of the Chimu Empire, an urban civilization which appeared on the Peruvian coast around 1100 AD. By 1450, when the Chumu Empire stretched from the Rio Zarumilla in the north to the Rio Chancay in the south and covered 40,000 square kilometres, Chan Chan was the centre of a chain of provincial capitals. They were all gradually incorporated into the Inca Empire between 1460 and 1480.”
It is another city made out of adobe bricks but this culture used the mud for decoration as well. Fishnet styled patterns about 1 foot x 1 foot protrude from most of the walls like little cubby holes. The images were carved out of mud, making it 3D, and then painted. There was even a man-made rectangular lake built inside the complex. It took us one hour to go through the whole thing and this was only one temple. An area, for taxes and administration, of rooms and store rooms, mainly intact, spanned, it seemed for an entire square kilometre. No stairs either. All ramps. Fine for me and my 1.5 knees. The walls were, at the base, formed with bigger stones with adobe bricks built on top in a triangular fashion. Seismic technology. Very cool.
After Chan Chan, the tour bus took us t the beach close by. Not overly crowded and very laid back. I had to test the water. I walked down to the sandy beach, which was mostly devoid of pebbles, and let the wave splash onto my feet. With a yelp, I scampered away from the cold Pacific water.
That evening, I had more ceviche with an Argentine History professor I met on the tour. Can’t remember his name. Between his broken English and my broken Spanish, we managed to have interesting conversation. He lives in a neighbourhood in BA that I had never visited. Like the Mike in Cusco, he also asked me the same questions a few times. I’m assuming that words were lost in translation rather than him being too drunk to remember.
Que asco. (How disgusting)
I took a cheap overnight bus to Trujillo. Cheap as in $10 soles cheaper. Trying to watch my spending, I've been opting for less expensive options. Well, I guess some things are meant to be splurged on. I had a window seat. At about 4 am, at one of the stops, I woke up, looked out the window and then down at the window sill beside me. And saw little brown oval insects and a couple cockroaches crawling from my armrest to the window, and all over the window. I sat straight and away form the window for the next 2 hours until I arrived to Trujillo, hoping that the bugs would not crawl into my bags on the floor. I think I will spend the extra $3 CAD for a better bus company from now on.
Huaraz, Peru. Way up high again
When I arrived at about 6 am, I was immediately pounced upon by tour sales people. They recommended hotels and tour packages. With "no obligations," they took us to check out 4 different hotels. I stayed at one about 10 mins away from the centre for $15 soles / night, including a continental breakfast. I got my own room a private bath and TV. I looked around the neighbourhood and saw why it was so cheap. Needless to say, I stayed indoors when it got dark. I watched the innaugaration of the new Bolivian President on TV that night. The first Aboriginal President in the world, I believe. Very cool. I also signed on for 2 tours, $25 soles each, not including entrance.
Cordillera Blanca (I think it means White Mountain Range)
Cordillera Blanca (I think it means White Mountain Range)
This was a full day nature tour. The highlight was the Llanganuco Glacier Lake in Huascran National Park. The water was a bright blue-green and was surrounded by lush green lawns and trees. And flies. Lots of flies that bite. We were at an extremely high altitude above 3000 metres and in which the exact number completely escapes me. Anyways, this means hiking was out of the question. There was a short little trail along the lake that I walked through. Very serene. I saw condors, llamas, and various farm animals from the small homes that lined the area.
Interesting fact... There is a a Cordillera Negra too. Basically side by side. Negra meaning black. The rock composition of the mountain ranges make look either black or white, hence the 2 mountain ranges.
The tour guide was, it seemed, a very intense, no-frills, no-sense-of-humour-type lady, who spouted out facts in an army-like fashion. At every stop, she stressed our time limit at least 3 times. "Cinco minutos, por favor. Cinco minutos, nada mas," in a voice, that, if it was high pitched enough, could shatter glass.
Chavin de Huantar
This was the main reason I was in Huaraz and it was totally worth it. This day, the tour guide was an enthusiastic joker, who seemed really passionate about the info he was relaying. A times, we were all just watching him instead of looking at whatever he was explaining. Even though I didn't understand every thing, I was still able to get the gist of most things. Terminology doesn't vary much from their latin roots.
We walked onto the complex of these ruins and there were stone walled couryards here and there. I wasn't overly impressed at first. Then he explained that tunnels of water ran underneath which supplied circulation and water to the stone temple we were about to see. The rocks used to build the structures were not from the area. They were imported from the northern mountains showing an advanced society. The 20' - 30' tall temple, or what's left, had no windows. It was built almost entirely of granite slabs about 4'-5' long and about 1' high. The main entrance had carvings on each pillar. One side with female forms, representing fertility and, the other, male images representing religion. The female side had a form with 6 vaginal depictions. Fertility of the land was highly important to the poeople. At this altitude and in a mosly desert environment, the well being of the society depended highly on what they could reap.
As you walk in, you had to duck to avoid hitting your head at the doorways. The people were not short as shown in skeletal remains. The doorways were built purposely like this so that everyone who entered the temple were forced to show respect by bowing.
The inside was a myriad of stone rooms. Big friggin slabs of rock above, beside and under you. The structure was most amazing. The main difference between these ruins and the ones previous is that these ruins had ceilings. Being as old as this was (before Incas) there was no musty smell. Little tunnels, starting with a cube about 1/2' x 1/2' were built in and led outside. You could see light if you looked through one. This provided access to fresh air. And don't forget the tunnels of water underneath. Over the natural spring water currents, they had built tunnels with openings to the temple surrounding these springs. The movement of the water circulated the air. And with the building being enclosed, it was warm even in the high altitudes (about 2500+ metres above sea level).
Outside of the temple, on the back wall, were carved stone heads about 1' x 1' in size. There was only 1 intact where everyone took a picture under. The stone heads stood about 12' above the ground. There were about 10 more in the on-site museum.
And then we went to the craft store, which it seems, always signifies the end of a tour.
Friday, January 27, 2006
Where I am now
I'm in Trujillo, Peru, heading to Máncora, Peru. Both these places have beaches and it's hot. Gotta luv it.
I'll be crossing the Ecuadorian border either on Sunday or Monday. Then straight to Quito, then onwards to Bogota, Colombia.
I'll be crossing the Ecuadorian border either on Sunday or Monday. Then straight to Quito, then onwards to Bogota, Colombia.
Wednesday, January 25, 2006
Lima, Peru. Waiting to leave
My bus was at 10 pm. Check-out was at 12 noon. I left my luggage at the front desk locker and proceeded to find ways to waste some time. I tried unsuccessfully to locate some of the people I know who live in Lima but, I only had emails and I knew some of them were travelling at this time. So, an email sent late the night before was unanswered. I decided to just wander.
I headed to the dome shaped structure I was able to see from my window. It turned out to be a Franciscan monastery featured in my guide book. Entrance was $5 soles and there was a guide in English. This church had a heavy Moorish influence, I'm told, so the architecture reflected the geometric shapes influenced in that period. Not nearly as flashy as the other churches I've been in, the extravagance in this church was shown in its intricately detailed carved wooded furniture and building supports. It boasts a library with the first dictionary published by the Real Spanish Dictionary and other books up to 400 years old. Unfortunately I was not allowed to browse. You need permission from the "head office" of the church. You know, where the Pope lives. In the various rooms, there were more pieces of art in Spanish styles. To me, it meant darker in colours and mostly brown. Inside, where the staircases were, was a beautiful wooden dome. Pieces of carved wood formed a criss-cross of arches.
As you walk through the courtyard, you notice that there are grates on the ground, and if the light is right, you can see stone steps leading down.
Discovered in 1943, the pamphlet says, the Catacombs contain the remains of 25,000 bodies buried under the church until 1808. As you go down, the ceilings get lower. I'm 5'2" and I had to duck at some of the archways. The first room, about 14' long, had pits on both sides, about 3' from the wall and 3-4 feet high. In them were piles and piles of human bones. Dark and dank, you feel like you're in an Indiana Jones movie. About 4 rooms were on display. Each was very closely the same. Two rooms had deep wells half-filled with bones. Some sections were organized by body parts. This was done by the archeologist who researched the place. The process for burial was this:
* Person dies and then has final ceremony in church.
* After the service, the body was carried down to the catacombs. You can see the front of the church's main worship area looking up from the bottom.
* If the person was rich or influential, they had a casket and was placed in a different area.
* If the person was a commoner, they were buried in one of the rooms. They were laid down, then covered with lyme then a layer of dirt. They usually could fit about 4 bodies in one of the 4 feet deep pits. The lyme decomposes the bodies effectively, minimizing bacteria and other air-borne diseases from developing in this hot and humid environment.
* Once the flesh was all eaten away, the bones were placed into the pits at the beginning of the catacombs area, making way for new bodies in the decomp pits.
* Composting, therefore, is not a new technology after all. I bet you the dirt down there is really fertile.
After the tour, I headed to the main Cathedral. It looked closed so I took a picture and continued walking. I found the pedestrian walkway which was lined with stores. I saw a KFC and immediately went in and got some fried chicken. Even though I don't usually eat KFC at home, I found myself gobbling up this terribly overpriced meal. I'm gonna get so fat during this trip.
I wanted to watch a movie. That would have wasted a good 2 hours but, the line-up was long and I really didn't feel like waiting. So, on I continued. I passed this architecturally beautiful building lined with guards and even a tank. All of them had guns and the guys on the roof had machine guns. I think this was the government palace.
Now, I'm sitting in a restaurant having one of these incredibly cheap set menus and a malt beer. When I was ordering it, the waiter was trying to convince me to order the light beer on tap. I didn't want it. He said the beer I chose was dark. I said I like dark. The really cute waiter was of African descent. OOPs. My bad Spanish. (Dark, in Spanish to describe beer is "negro" or black. It's also used to describe people of African descent in a non-derogatory way.) So, me gusta negro, as I untactfully said, had a double meaning and was not what I meant!
This beer is not Stone Stout, a really good beer I enjoyed in Buenos Aires. It's a national brand - Cusqueña Malta - has spicy overtones but its a bit too sweet for my tastes.
I headed to the dome shaped structure I was able to see from my window. It turned out to be a Franciscan monastery featured in my guide book. Entrance was $5 soles and there was a guide in English. This church had a heavy Moorish influence, I'm told, so the architecture reflected the geometric shapes influenced in that period. Not nearly as flashy as the other churches I've been in, the extravagance in this church was shown in its intricately detailed carved wooded furniture and building supports. It boasts a library with the first dictionary published by the Real Spanish Dictionary and other books up to 400 years old. Unfortunately I was not allowed to browse. You need permission from the "head office" of the church. You know, where the Pope lives. In the various rooms, there were more pieces of art in Spanish styles. To me, it meant darker in colours and mostly brown. Inside, where the staircases were, was a beautiful wooden dome. Pieces of carved wood formed a criss-cross of arches.
As you walk through the courtyard, you notice that there are grates on the ground, and if the light is right, you can see stone steps leading down.
Discovered in 1943, the pamphlet says, the Catacombs contain the remains of 25,000 bodies buried under the church until 1808. As you go down, the ceilings get lower. I'm 5'2" and I had to duck at some of the archways. The first room, about 14' long, had pits on both sides, about 3' from the wall and 3-4 feet high. In them were piles and piles of human bones. Dark and dank, you feel like you're in an Indiana Jones movie. About 4 rooms were on display. Each was very closely the same. Two rooms had deep wells half-filled with bones. Some sections were organized by body parts. This was done by the archeologist who researched the place. The process for burial was this:
* Person dies and then has final ceremony in church.
* After the service, the body was carried down to the catacombs. You can see the front of the church's main worship area looking up from the bottom.
* If the person was rich or influential, they had a casket and was placed in a different area.
* If the person was a commoner, they were buried in one of the rooms. They were laid down, then covered with lyme then a layer of dirt. They usually could fit about 4 bodies in one of the 4 feet deep pits. The lyme decomposes the bodies effectively, minimizing bacteria and other air-borne diseases from developing in this hot and humid environment.
* Once the flesh was all eaten away, the bones were placed into the pits at the beginning of the catacombs area, making way for new bodies in the decomp pits.
* Composting, therefore, is not a new technology after all. I bet you the dirt down there is really fertile.
After the tour, I headed to the main Cathedral. It looked closed so I took a picture and continued walking. I found the pedestrian walkway which was lined with stores. I saw a KFC and immediately went in and got some fried chicken. Even though I don't usually eat KFC at home, I found myself gobbling up this terribly overpriced meal. I'm gonna get so fat during this trip.
I wanted to watch a movie. That would have wasted a good 2 hours but, the line-up was long and I really didn't feel like waiting. So, on I continued. I passed this architecturally beautiful building lined with guards and even a tank. All of them had guns and the guys on the roof had machine guns. I think this was the government palace.
Now, I'm sitting in a restaurant having one of these incredibly cheap set menus and a malt beer. When I was ordering it, the waiter was trying to convince me to order the light beer on tap. I didn't want it. He said the beer I chose was dark. I said I like dark. The really cute waiter was of African descent. OOPs. My bad Spanish. (Dark, in Spanish to describe beer is "negro" or black. It's also used to describe people of African descent in a non-derogatory way.) So, me gusta negro, as I untactfully said, had a double meaning and was not what I meant!
This beer is not Stone Stout, a really good beer I enjoyed in Buenos Aires. It's a national brand - Cusqueña Malta - has spicy overtones but its a bit too sweet for my tastes.
Lima, Peru.
I really didn't want to stop here but, the next bus out was at 10pm the next day. I wanted to take a cab to this recommended hostal but the taxi driver insisted that I walk to a hotel really close to the bus station. OK. I checked it out. didn't like it and it was far from everything. I ended up brushing the guy off and walked with my pack in this desert heat for about an hour to the hostal I wanted.
Spanish Inquisition Museum
This was all explained in Spanish and I was too tired to try to understad. There was a courtroom and windows to the torture chambers. She described the water torture, the hanging-weight-on-limbs torture and the wheel. Luckily, I studied this in university so not understanding was OK. Not as gruesome as I hoped it would be.
China town / Main market
Now this was a proper Chinatown. All those foods I miss at home were available here. And so was everything else you can think of. Next to Chinatown was the main market. Instead of wares on the streets like Bolivia, here were storefronts. On the streets, there were also vendors holding everything from food to bra straps, shouting their various goods to passer-bys. Spanning over 4 blocks, possibly more (all I was able to navigate), the streets were packed with customers and vendors alike. I kept a close hand by my pockets in case of pick-pocketers. I bought a Chinese egg-custard tart, a lo-mai-chi (glutenous sweet pastry) and a bun with a hot dog in it (typical Chinese pastry). There was even Reese's peanut butter cups for sale. Almost bought one, but $3.50 soles was not a bargain. Oh and "siew lap." Various Chinese styled BBQ meats. Done proper. Almost makes me homesick. Almost.
Spanish Inquisition Museum
This was all explained in Spanish and I was too tired to try to understad. There was a courtroom and windows to the torture chambers. She described the water torture, the hanging-weight-on-limbs torture and the wheel. Luckily, I studied this in university so not understanding was OK. Not as gruesome as I hoped it would be.
China town / Main market
Now this was a proper Chinatown. All those foods I miss at home were available here. And so was everything else you can think of. Next to Chinatown was the main market. Instead of wares on the streets like Bolivia, here were storefronts. On the streets, there were also vendors holding everything from food to bra straps, shouting their various goods to passer-bys. Spanning over 4 blocks, possibly more (all I was able to navigate), the streets were packed with customers and vendors alike. I kept a close hand by my pockets in case of pick-pocketers. I bought a Chinese egg-custard tart, a lo-mai-chi (glutenous sweet pastry) and a bun with a hot dog in it (typical Chinese pastry). There was even Reese's peanut butter cups for sale. Almost bought one, but $3.50 soles was not a bargain. Oh and "siew lap." Various Chinese styled BBQ meats. Done proper. Almost makes me homesick. Almost.
Tuesday, January 24, 2006
Nazca to Lima
I've never seen a desert until this day. Hills of golden sand as far as the eye can see. Makes you want to roll in it and feel the heat radiate into your body. If you look to the other side of the bus, the Pacific Ocean. The crystal blue water going into the horizon and the white frothy waves lapping up the delicious sand. I think my jaw was on the floor for a good 5 minutes, with me just staring and staring.
Monday, January 23, 2006
Nazca, Peru. It's warm!
The famous Nazca lines are here. Outlines of pre-Incan symmbols in the earth stretching over many kilometres. The best view is from the air. Tour packages start at $35 USD and they take you up in a small plane to the various symbols. I'm way too cheap and bought a postcard. $1 Sol.
I took a tour to the cemetary instead. Over many kilometres, an ancient burial site was discovred not too long ago (within 30 years). Only a few sites have been excavated and put on display (lack of government / private funding).
* Mummies, almost perfectly preserved by the desert, in the fetal position of all social classes were buried here.
* They were discoved in various rooms surrounded by pottery, food and talismans. Possibly more but grave robbers all but decimated the area since the place was discovered.
* Most of the mummies had hair up to 2 metres long, in rasta-fari dred locked styles.
* The 12 display sites were arranged by archeologist as the remains were scattered all over by the grave robbers.
* Even as you step on the path, pieces of bone, hair, textiles and other human remains are poking up from the sand.
After the cementary, we went to a pottery craftsman's workshop where he showed us how the ancients made and painted their pottery. Using colours from rocks, like cobalt and copper, the paints were made. To polish the pottery, a stone was used to rub the oil from the nose, then was rubbed onto the surface of the pottery. Then he showed us his wares for sale. If I didn't have to carry a pack, I wold have bought a piece.
We then proceeded to the gold miner's factory. Excavating 20 kilos of rock, then crushing it into fine powder, then using mercury to extract the gold from the powder, they can get a gram of gold. And here I thought that going goldpanning in the Fraser River was hard work. Mind you, after 2 years, I don't even have a gram of gold. The process of grinding the rocks involve men standing on huge stones, rocking back and forth, using the weight of the big stone to crush the rocks in the water basin below. This factory, which is really some guy's backyard, held 5 crushing stations. Really, we've invented gear technology years ago. The whole set-up could be done much easier. But I'm sure it's to attract people to buy the wares in the front.
After being dropped off by the tour wagon, I made my way to an archeological museum, wherin many artifacts from surrounding sites were on display. From pottery to household items to intrically woven textiles and amazingly woven human hair. Showcased were pictures documenting excavation processes. The place was fairly big and I was impressed.
I took a tour to the cemetary instead. Over many kilometres, an ancient burial site was discovred not too long ago (within 30 years). Only a few sites have been excavated and put on display (lack of government / private funding).
* Mummies, almost perfectly preserved by the desert, in the fetal position of all social classes were buried here.
* They were discoved in various rooms surrounded by pottery, food and talismans. Possibly more but grave robbers all but decimated the area since the place was discovered.
* Most of the mummies had hair up to 2 metres long, in rasta-fari dred locked styles.
* The 12 display sites were arranged by archeologist as the remains were scattered all over by the grave robbers.
* Even as you step on the path, pieces of bone, hair, textiles and other human remains are poking up from the sand.
After the cementary, we went to a pottery craftsman's workshop where he showed us how the ancients made and painted their pottery. Using colours from rocks, like cobalt and copper, the paints were made. To polish the pottery, a stone was used to rub the oil from the nose, then was rubbed onto the surface of the pottery. Then he showed us his wares for sale. If I didn't have to carry a pack, I wold have bought a piece.
We then proceeded to the gold miner's factory. Excavating 20 kilos of rock, then crushing it into fine powder, then using mercury to extract the gold from the powder, they can get a gram of gold. And here I thought that going goldpanning in the Fraser River was hard work. Mind you, after 2 years, I don't even have a gram of gold. The process of grinding the rocks involve men standing on huge stones, rocking back and forth, using the weight of the big stone to crush the rocks in the water basin below. This factory, which is really some guy's backyard, held 5 crushing stations. Really, we've invented gear technology years ago. The whole set-up could be done much easier. But I'm sure it's to attract people to buy the wares in the front.
After being dropped off by the tour wagon, I made my way to an archeological museum, wherin many artifacts from surrounding sites were on display. From pottery to household items to intrically woven textiles and amazingly woven human hair. Showcased were pictures documenting excavation processes. The place was fairly big and I was impressed.
Ceviche
OK, backtracking a little to Nazca. I had a regional dish of raw seafood marinated in spicy lime sauce with red onions and potatotes. It was sooo good, I took a picture of it. (Had a few bites, rearranged the platter and took a shot.) No tummy troubles either.
Guinea pig is another regional specialty. I don't think I have the guts. I did try llama. It's kind of bland and no game taste. Close to boiled beef. It wasn't bad and I've ordered it a few times, but nothing spectacular either.
Guinea pig is another regional specialty. I don't think I have the guts. I did try llama. It's kind of bland and no game taste. Close to boiled beef. It wasn't bad and I've ordered it a few times, but nothing spectacular either.
Cusco. Day 4. Waiting to leave
I packed up and went off to buy bus tix to Nazca. The guy told me that it would take an hour to get the ticket. So I went and got myself a full body massage for $40 soles.1.25 hours later, I returned but no tix yet. I was told that I should return in another 45 mins. Not too pleased and not willing to walk uphill for 20 mins to my hostel, I went to grab lunch. I did manage to get the tickets after lunch and went back to the hostel to finish the book.
The overnight bus to Nazca undid all the benefits of the massage. Good thing no one was sitting beside me, so I as able to stretch out a bit. They also showed a really bad movie with and old Steven Segal, which really didn't help.
The overnight bus to Nazca undid all the benefits of the massage. Good thing no one was sitting beside me, so I as able to stretch out a bit. They also showed a really bad movie with and old Steven Segal, which really didn't help.
Cusco, Peru Day 3. Sacsayhuaman & Q'enko
I could have walked to the sites. But somehow uphill for 2 km’s in pouring rainn seemed much better in a cab. Armed with both my wimpy umbrella and a bright yellow poncho, this is what I saw:
* Enormous stone city, though not as big as Machu Picchu. The stones ranged from 2' - 8' tall. It took a good 15 mins to walk from one end to the other.
* It looked as if the structure was still in progress although, with the rain, I didn't look too carefully.
*In the middle there was a great field. At least a good football field wide and about 3 long. Across the way were rocks that had been cut.
* The most intriguing thing were the big rocks with squares dug out of them. Like someone made a cookie cutter and sliced into natural rock.
* Right now, there is a caucasion tourist with shaggy hair who has been staring at me for the past 5 mins.
After about 2 hours climbing up and down slippery rock steps, I made my way to Q'enko. This was about 20 mins uphill.
Q'enko is a much smaller site. Most significant were the tunnels in the rocks and carved steps to where the ancients cut more rocks. There were some stone walls but smaller than Sacsayhuaman. This place took about 45 mins to navigate. Thankfully the rain had stopped.
I made my way back to the hostel to read more of the book. It was in English and it's a joy to read again!
* Enormous stone city, though not as big as Machu Picchu. The stones ranged from 2' - 8' tall. It took a good 15 mins to walk from one end to the other.
* It looked as if the structure was still in progress although, with the rain, I didn't look too carefully.
*In the middle there was a great field. At least a good football field wide and about 3 long. Across the way were rocks that had been cut.
* The most intriguing thing were the big rocks with squares dug out of them. Like someone made a cookie cutter and sliced into natural rock.
* Right now, there is a caucasion tourist with shaggy hair who has been staring at me for the past 5 mins.
After about 2 hours climbing up and down slippery rock steps, I made my way to Q'enko. This was about 20 mins uphill.
Q'enko is a much smaller site. Most significant were the tunnels in the rocks and carved steps to where the ancients cut more rocks. There were some stone walls but smaller than Sacsayhuaman. This place took about 45 mins to navigate. Thankfully the rain had stopped.
I made my way back to the hostel to read more of the book. It was in English and it's a joy to read again!
Friday, January 20, 2006
Cusco, Peru - Day 2 - The city
As I said, the Hell room drove me to find something better the next day. And indeed I did, Casa de la Gringa (house of the foreign lady). It had a hippie new age phsycadelic feel. And indeed, lessons for aura-finding, meditation, etc. were availabele. The place even had 2 cats. Above all, it was clean and decorated very artsy-like. Everybody was friendly (guests and staff) and I gave a great sigh of relief. (Not heat though. I don't think any place had heat!) I had a shower (hot AND cold water) in modern facilities and damn, I miss these little things. It was also double the price. But worth it. I set out on that rainy day to take pictures of the cathedrals and explore the downtown centre.
Tampons with Applicators available for sale at any pharmacy. 'Nuf said.
Big church wanted $40 soles so I could go inside. Not thanks. Took a picture of the the intricate wooden doors on the outside and moved on. I went by a different church which charged only $3 soles. That I could handle. Inside held many great pieces of art by an Aboriginal Peruvian Catholic from the 19th century (I could be wrong about the year. They were old though.) The beams on the roof were of beautifully carved wood. In one of the display rooms, there was this diamond, ruby, emerald encrusted gold thing (forgot the name) that was used to hold bread for communion. It stood about 3 feet tall and was protected in a sensor-wired glass cabinet. That thing was very old too.
On display were ten 17th to 18th century priest robes made with bronze, silver and gold threads. Must have been itchy. All this info was deliverd to my by a very annoying guide, whom I had told that I didn't want his services. He followed me anyhow. He led me to the choir room upstairs and there were wooden carvings of the various martyrs of the church. Some had hands missing or their heads deformed or in other various states of torture, depicting how they were punished. Next, we climbed higher into the bell towers were I had an extraordinary view of the city. And where he tried to inch closer to me. I tactically blocked him with my bag of groceries. Next we climbed down to the main worship area. Once again, big statues. Don't let me get on my soapbox about this again. Then we went to an enlcosed, tight area, where he, once again tried to get really close.Thank goodness for groceries. Anyways, we were at a balcony where the priest used to preach to their aboriginal parish, whom were not allowed into the church. hmmm........
Next stop, an underground area where a priest spent about 25 years (give or take - can't remember) in solitude. This guy painted various religious images all over the walls. This was quite cool. When we went back to the main courtyard, he asked if I've been to some night club. I said no, and I didn't want to because I had an early bus. (A lie.)
I returned to the hostel, started reading The Vampire Lestat and stayed in all night.
Tampons with Applicators available for sale at any pharmacy. 'Nuf said.
Big church wanted $40 soles so I could go inside. Not thanks. Took a picture of the the intricate wooden doors on the outside and moved on. I went by a different church which charged only $3 soles. That I could handle. Inside held many great pieces of art by an Aboriginal Peruvian Catholic from the 19th century (I could be wrong about the year. They were old though.) The beams on the roof were of beautifully carved wood. In one of the display rooms, there was this diamond, ruby, emerald encrusted gold thing (forgot the name) that was used to hold bread for communion. It stood about 3 feet tall and was protected in a sensor-wired glass cabinet. That thing was very old too.
On display were ten 17th to 18th century priest robes made with bronze, silver and gold threads. Must have been itchy. All this info was deliverd to my by a very annoying guide, whom I had told that I didn't want his services. He followed me anyhow. He led me to the choir room upstairs and there were wooden carvings of the various martyrs of the church. Some had hands missing or their heads deformed or in other various states of torture, depicting how they were punished. Next, we climbed higher into the bell towers were I had an extraordinary view of the city. And where he tried to inch closer to me. I tactically blocked him with my bag of groceries. Next we climbed down to the main worship area. Once again, big statues. Don't let me get on my soapbox about this again. Then we went to an enlcosed, tight area, where he, once again tried to get really close.Thank goodness for groceries. Anyways, we were at a balcony where the priest used to preach to their aboriginal parish, whom were not allowed into the church. hmmm........
Next stop, an underground area where a priest spent about 25 years (give or take - can't remember) in solitude. This guy painted various religious images all over the walls. This was quite cool. When we went back to the main courtyard, he asked if I've been to some night club. I said no, and I didn't want to because I had an early bus. (A lie.)
I returned to the hostel, started reading The Vampire Lestat and stayed in all night.
Cusco, Peru - Day 1. Heaven & Hell
I arrived in Cusco at 5 in the morning. I took a cab to the train station to stand in line to buy a ticket to Machu Picchu Pueblo, the town closest to the ruins. I think I was about the 10th person in line. When the gates opened, everyone, very orderly, stands in line and waits for their turn. And we wait. And we wait. And we wait. It turns out that all the people in front of me were buying for other people, be it as a travel agent or someone who had just approached them. The people behind me who could speak Spanish started complaining. Then they started shouting. Then they started chanting. “One for one!” (meaning one ticket per person). Pretty soon the police were called and decided that, starting from me, everyone had to be buying for themselves. From what I could tell, the guy in front of me was the last “travel agent” anyways, so really it was just to calm the masses. And really, if they were all travel agents, and they booked the tickets the day before, the availability of the seats would be exactly the same. I was quite amused. Until it came to it being my turn. I asked for a one-way ticket because I wanted to stay in the town and enjoy the hot springs there. The lady sold me a return ticket for the same day. Now, not staying wasn’t my main concern. Not having enough time to explore the ruins really upset me. The tickets were expensive and I would be here probably only once in my life. I would have gotten it changed but the frenzy of the crowd behind me told me I should just go. I complained but she told me to wait. The train was leaving very soon and who knows how long it I would have had to wait for it. So, I just decided to make the best of it.
Really Drunk Chain-smoking English Guy in his Late 40’s or Even 50’s.
I get on the train and I got the extreme luck of sitting next to Mike. Conversation with him consisted of him asking me the same questions about 4 times and me answering them over the course of 4 hours. Except for “What’s your name?” He remembered that. He knew less Spanish than me so he hung around at each point where Spanish was needed. He told me that he buys and sells books for a living. Then he started to ask a whole bunch of stupid questions about Canada. I told him to buy a book on Canada and read it. Nice enough chap though. We hung out for the next day and a half. I made sure I sat upwind from him though. I don’t think he had showered for a few days.
Hotel room for $20 Soles
There were blood specks on the walls. I had bites on my body in the morning. There was plenty of hot water but, no cold water. Think drug and sex orgy room in Boogie Nights minus any of the glamour. I didn’t even wash up the next morning. I packed up, checked out and found a new hostel. Why did I pick it in the first place? It was dark and raining. It was late. I was exhausted and all other places I went to were full. Except for the place for $70 USD/night, which is way overpriced.
Machu Picchu
I can’t even think of how I can describe this. Would being there, standing in front of these Incan ruins be comparable to standing in front of the Pyramids in Egypt? Or how about the Great Wall of China? Or the Taj Mahal? Or when I stood in Atlantic waters for the first time when I was 29? Yes, this feeling could be closely described like that.
First of all, this place is huge. At the top of a mountain, scores and scores of rocks makeup the structures that were once homes, temples, farms of people. The next mountain over is a vertical green jagged pillar, with clouds hovering almost at the top. It took me (and Mike) about 2.5 hours to move between all the vertical steps ad explore every room. There was another part, even higher, and from what I was told, was Stairmaster uphill for 2 hours, to another part of the ruins. I took a picture from the bottom and continued to explore.
I first went up a hill to the Caretaker’s hut (I think). From there, I got an overview of the whole complex and of the steep drop to the rivers WAY below. This is the classic view from all the pictures you see. But it was much better. You really get the feeling of how small you are in the midst of this place. Clambering down and tying to avoid the tour groups and llamas on the paths, we made our way to the ceremonial site. There was a big rock cut to cast shadows at every equinox (or something like that – excuse my bad understanding of Spanish). When you place you hands over it (no touching) you’re supposed to feel energy radiate from it. Or, because it’s a rock out in the sun…
After that we made our way to the residential area, the prison, the ceremonial/ sacrificial rock and the baths. As much as I don’t want to take the glamour away from this place, I wouldn’t have been able to discern the differences from each of the rooms as they were all stone walls. Mike had a map of the place. I knew I kept him around for something :-). The baths were the only thing that was obvious. Spring water, tapped by the Incas so many years ago still runs down the various channels of rock and spouts constructed in the area.
I wish I could say more but, I feel that if I do, I will not do this place justice. Please have a peak for yourselves.
http://www.ifip.com/Machupijchu1.htm
Really Drunk Chain-smoking English Guy in his Late 40’s or Even 50’s.
I get on the train and I got the extreme luck of sitting next to Mike. Conversation with him consisted of him asking me the same questions about 4 times and me answering them over the course of 4 hours. Except for “What’s your name?” He remembered that. He knew less Spanish than me so he hung around at each point where Spanish was needed. He told me that he buys and sells books for a living. Then he started to ask a whole bunch of stupid questions about Canada. I told him to buy a book on Canada and read it. Nice enough chap though. We hung out for the next day and a half. I made sure I sat upwind from him though. I don’t think he had showered for a few days.
Hotel room for $20 Soles
There were blood specks on the walls. I had bites on my body in the morning. There was plenty of hot water but, no cold water. Think drug and sex orgy room in Boogie Nights minus any of the glamour. I didn’t even wash up the next morning. I packed up, checked out and found a new hostel. Why did I pick it in the first place? It was dark and raining. It was late. I was exhausted and all other places I went to were full. Except for the place for $70 USD/night, which is way overpriced.
Machu Picchu
I can’t even think of how I can describe this. Would being there, standing in front of these Incan ruins be comparable to standing in front of the Pyramids in Egypt? Or how about the Great Wall of China? Or the Taj Mahal? Or when I stood in Atlantic waters for the first time when I was 29? Yes, this feeling could be closely described like that.
First of all, this place is huge. At the top of a mountain, scores and scores of rocks makeup the structures that were once homes, temples, farms of people. The next mountain over is a vertical green jagged pillar, with clouds hovering almost at the top. It took me (and Mike) about 2.5 hours to move between all the vertical steps ad explore every room. There was another part, even higher, and from what I was told, was Stairmaster uphill for 2 hours, to another part of the ruins. I took a picture from the bottom and continued to explore.
I first went up a hill to the Caretaker’s hut (I think). From there, I got an overview of the whole complex and of the steep drop to the rivers WAY below. This is the classic view from all the pictures you see. But it was much better. You really get the feeling of how small you are in the midst of this place. Clambering down and tying to avoid the tour groups and llamas on the paths, we made our way to the ceremonial site. There was a big rock cut to cast shadows at every equinox (or something like that – excuse my bad understanding of Spanish). When you place you hands over it (no touching) you’re supposed to feel energy radiate from it. Or, because it’s a rock out in the sun…
After that we made our way to the residential area, the prison, the ceremonial/ sacrificial rock and the baths. As much as I don’t want to take the glamour away from this place, I wouldn’t have been able to discern the differences from each of the rooms as they were all stone walls. Mike had a map of the place. I knew I kept him around for something :-). The baths were the only thing that was obvious. Spring water, tapped by the Incas so many years ago still runs down the various channels of rock and spouts constructed in the area.
I wish I could say more but, I feel that if I do, I will not do this place justice. Please have a peak for yourselves.
http://www.ifip.com/Machupijchu1.htm
Copacabana - Puno - Cusco
Nothing really interesting. Crossed into Peru. Stayed in Puno for 4 hours before the next bus left. Puno is almost across the lake from Copacabana. Just a side note, you have to pay to use public bathrooms here. Usually $1 Bob, which isn't much but, the toilets are usually not very clean.
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