These are some highlights (and lowlights) of my experiences in Argentina and from backpacking Latin America. I hope you guys find as much fun reading them as I did trying to live thru them!!!
Friday, January 20, 2006
Copacabana, Bolivia. Day 3- Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun)
After the museum, everyone started to trek uphill on steep rocky steps to ceremonial site. Still in very poor physical shape and still fencing with the altitude, this trek was quite strenuous. It was all worth it. From the high viewpoint looking down on the sandy shoreline and at crystalline blue water, I felt like I could fly. Actually, it was probably just the lack of oxygen. The ceremonial site was really just a big rock and here was a sacrificial alter in front of it. I think the trek up was probably more phenomenal.
When the guide finished explaining the function of the rock, we all headed to another site. I wasn't expecting much so, when we arrived, I was pleasantly surprised. The guide had taken us to residential ruins of the ancient people. Walls constructed of intricately cut stones. Irrigation systems using spring water at the top of the island, I should mention that this is not a flat island. It's like a mini-mountain in the middle of the lake. The framing area was terraced along the sides of the steep hillsides. I spent the next few minutes walking through the various doorways and hallways. It felt like I as in a mini wherein finding an exit was met with more views of the waters below.
I had about 45mins to race down the mountain after visiting the ruins to catch the boat to the south side of the island. I didn't even fall once.
The south side was nowhere near as exciting. Here was a flight of stone steps that seemed like it was vertical. Apparently Inca-built. The top was lined with ladies selling wares and girls in traditional wear with really cute llamas, trying to get you to pay them so you can take a picture of them. Various areas on the ground were colourfully speckled with candy wrappers and empty pop bottles.The Inca steps seemed to hold all the tourist bustling up and down, bumping each other with their packs without apology.
Regardless, I had a really good night's sleep that night.
Copacabana, Bolivia. Day 2. Stroll on the beach
Afterwards, I went for a walk on the beach. The lake is big. From the town I as in to another that was not quite across the lake, took 3 hours by bus. And this was not even lengthwise. The sun was out and even with the amount of tourists in the aresa, the white sndy beach was only sparsely filled. The stroll, in 2 sweaters, a wool hat and woolen gloves, was re-energizing. I think only because it was about 50 feet lower in elevation. There was a row of tents along the beach that sold a variety of seafood, which means: grilled trout, steamed trout, lemon trout, garlic trout- you get the idea. Every one, as you walk by, had a little lady who would try to get you to eat in their particular stall. Then there were the ladies sitting in various areas along the beach and street with their various wares. As I walked by, they tried to convice me that I needed another pair of wooley gloves. These ladies are in the same costume as the chubby ladies described previously in bright blue, red, pink, yellow, turquoise skirts and some sort of hat. The wind picked up and I got cold so I returned to the main strip to find a cafe to read about my next destination.
Copacabana, Bolivia. Day 1
(Note: Copacabana also exists in Brazil. Apparently, the city in Brazil was named after this one in Bolivia.)
La Paz - Day 4. Can't even move
I wanted to get to the black market to buy a digital camera, but was exhausted by the afternoon. I ended up going to the Coca museum instead. The amount of euphoria obtained by chewing coca leaves versus doing cocaine is absolutely incomparable. Basically, you can not get high chewing coca leaves. The leaves do help with pain and altitude sickness but you have to continuously chew, and add to the side of your cheek, the leaves for at least 4 hours before there is any effect. Your saliva and the juices from the leaves mix and takes time for the chemicals to turn. Needless to say, I tried a couple leaves (tastes like lawn grass – yes I know what lawn grass tastes like – I was a weird child.) but I’m way too lazy to chew a wad of leaves for 4 hours.
The museum showed how the ancient societies used coca leaves as medicine, vitamin supplements and for ceremonial purposes. The Catholic Church, at first, banned the use of coca leaves but, then approved it when their native slaves were able to work 48 hours non-stop in the mine while only chewing coca.
The recently elected President of Bolivia supports the growth and usage of coca for Bolivians despite international pressures to illegalize the industry of this plant. In response to eradication pressures from the USA, he said, First, we get rid of Coca-Cola, then we can get rid of coca. *
At night, my altitude sickness relapsed. I went to bed about 7 pm and ended up skipping dinner.
*The main buyers of illegally grown coca are from the USA.
Saturday, January 14, 2006
Copacabana, Bolivia
Going to Cusco, Peru tomorrow. Will write more about Lago Titicaca later.
Wednesday, January 11, 2006
La Paz, Bolivia Day 3 - The Death Road
We started at about 8am as we got into the van and drove to the spot. By the time we arrived, I needed to go to the bathroom. No go. Had to hold it. The first hour was downhill on a safe highway. We reached a point and rested. Good thing too because the next hour was all uphill. And with the altitude being somewhere around 3500 metres above sea level, breathing was VERY difficult. I did most of the first part and ended up walking the bike up the steepest region. There were two more uphill sections on pavement, which I chickened out, mainly because I couldn't breathe at that altitude, and went up in the van that trailed all the bikers.
Once we reached the unpaved area, I jumped back on the bike to go downhill on the dusty gravel road. The rest of the group flew down the hill. I rode my brakes the whoooooooooooooooole way. Maybe going about 1 km per hour. Maybe even 1/2 km per hour. You see, there is traffic coming both ways. Big trucks. It is so narrow on some parts of the road, it barely fits one vehicle. Statistics are that hundreds of people die on this road each year. Bus loads of people can fall over the cliff. Plus tourists riding down and slipping off the edge. The road has no shoulder and it is a straight drop, ranging from 4000 metres to 1500 metres above sea level, depending on where you are on the trail. Yeah, so I braked the whole way down. My hands were so sore yesterday that I could barely move my fingers. And my palms hurt like a S.O.B. today. I'm also very saddle sore. Most people with functional knees, can stand on the bike. I can just barely but I certainly can NOT pedal standing up. My bad knee wouldn't let me. Considering all this, I'm quite proud of myself for doing this. Even though I arrived dead last, keeping the rest of the group waiting for a good 45 minutes.
After the biking, we headed to a hotel where we ate at a buffet. I was in some state of shock, I think. I couldn't eat much at all and kept drinking warm liquids. It was about 27 degrees but I was shivering in my fleece jacket. I also made the mistake of eating the jello. I didn't get much sleep last night either. For other reasons. Man, I miss Pepto Bismal.
I can't say I felt scared while I was biking down. Adrenaline, probably. Plus I was concentrating on the road ahead of me and trying to see through my very fuzzy contact lenses. It's really difficult when you can't focus on anything. I was cursing like a sailor in English and Spanish on the ride back though. We took the same route back by van. We almost got into one accident because the oncoming bus wasn't doing the correct safety warning when it reached a bend. And then needing to share the NARROW road with oncoming semi-trucks coming the opposite direction. That was the scary part.
So, now I'm sore. But I survived. Plus, I got a free t-shirt and a CD with all the pics from the excursion. The pics are on my photo log (link in the sidebar). The company I went through was http://www.thedeathroad.com/. It cost $36 USD, but it was well worth it. I was the most physically demanding thing I have ever done in my life and now I'm all teeth.
La Paz, Bolivia Day 2 - Archeological site: Tiwanaku - Updated
The tour started at 8 am, which mean 8:30 after we picked everyone up. We headed towards the site which was 1.5 hours away. We stopped briefly at the original city of La Paz. The tour guide said that everyone left to the current day La Paz because the climate is less severe at lower altitudes. We took pics of a 400-year-old church, then hopped back on the bus. When we got there, we went through the museum before heading to the site.
Highlights / Interesting facts:
* Tiwanaku culture existed before the Incas. They had developed into an advanced society eventually venturing into culture and land expansion.
* There are images of all races of the world we know now in statures or art. Most significantly, Asian-people images, Northern European and African face statues.
* Only a SMALL percentage of the site has been excavated. The entire site is supposed to cover 1000’s of square kilometers. This was discovered through satellite technology. They do not have the funding to have continuous steady work done on the site. It seems that bits and pieces are excavated as the $$ comes in. When I was there, a section of steps about 20 feet long was uncovered only 6 weeks ago.
* Here’s the link to the site for those interested: http://whc.unesco.org/pg.cfm?cid=31&id_site=567
So, after I got back, I went shopping and then had dinner (actually having dinner as I’m writing this in my book.) at a Lebanese Restaurant.
Things I bought:
1 x hippie pants $35 Bobs
1 x llama felt hat $25 Bobs
1 x llama woolen gloves $12 Bobs
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Total $70 Bobs = $8.75 CAD
I’m gonna go looking for a digital camera on the back market on Wednesday. Alex, I think the odds are more against you now on your poll request… Don’t worry guys, I’ll write as soon as I’m safe. If you don’t hear from me again Ale, you lost your bet. :)
La Paz, Bolivia Day 1 - Getting lost - Updated
As I came closer to the city, I could see 1/2 finished houses all the way in. It turns out that, if a house is left unfinished, the people pay less taxes on it. All the houses are staggered down in rows over 1000 metres of mountain. Contrary to most places in the world, in La Paz, the rich live in the lower altitudes and the poor live in the higher altittudes. This is mainly because of the climate. In winter, in the higher altitiudes, the temperatures can drop down to -15 degrees C. In the lower altitudes, low temperatues in winter range from 10 C to 15 C above zero.
After checking into a hostel, I went out and managed to get myself properly lost. Originally, I was looking for food. Clean food. I had fried chicken, french fries and a Coke for the 2nd day in a row. The neighourhood I'm in is packed with street vendors. I mean blocks upon block of various wares for sale. ANYTHING you can think of is for sale, except for, of course, tampons with applicators.
When I finally found my way back, I booked 2 tours: 1 to Tiwanaku, an enourmous archeological site which dates back to before the Incas, and a mountain bike trip down The Death Road.
Villazon, Bolivia - Updated
So to get from Argentina customs to Bolivian customs, you basically get your exit stamp, cross the very short bridge, go to the Bolivian Immigration, fill out a form, get it stamped along with your passport, and that's it. As you walk out of the office towards Bolivia, not more than 20 paces away, are rows upon rows of the aforementioned ladies guarding various stalls selling anything you can think of. For cheap too! There were oil-drum sized bags full of coca leaves for sale too. It's legal in Bolivia, but I didn't buy any. They're supposed to be better further north. :)
To give you guys an idea of how cheap things are:
1 roasted drumstick (big) + portion of fires + rice was $7 Bolivianos. That’s a little less than a buck CAD! Mind you, I did get dinged when I bought a litre of Sprite at the hotel. $10 Bob’s! It was 6 am. I as up forever, heating up like I had a fever, my nose was dry my lips parched. I drank ½ the thing in one go. Then I proceeded to shiver under 6 layers of blankets until I fell asleep again. I didn’t sleep for long tho. I awoke to 3 loud bangs. At first I thought they were gunshots. Then I remembered that it was the 5th of January. This is the day where most Latin cultures open their gifts. I guess in Bolivian culture, a parade with tuba players and firecrackers is the norm.
The train to Oruro.
I’m in 1st class, only because business class was sold out. Happily, it seems that business class is really economy class where the folks have a whole bunch of their wares with them. No chickens tho. I’m busing home, not roughing it.
My neighbour on the train was this rotund guy in his 50’s with eyebrows like a Don in a bad Italian mafia flick. I managed to make small talk in Spanish. He’s Bolivian and he described bits of the landscape as we passed it on the train. Nice gentleman. Usually, on long distance buses, there is a divider between the paired seats. Not on this train. I have enough trouble sleeping in a chair as is, but with the fat arse of this guy taking up ½ my seat, I was less than comfortable.
The scenery from Villazon to La Pas, on the most part, is fairly blah. Long stretch of desert, some adobe houses, occasional herds of llama or sheep and the mountains in the distance. We passed the great Salt lakes, Salar de Uyuni, apparently the biggest on the earth. It was night and I slept through it.
The morning, however, gave me the most beautiful scenery I have every seen in my life. The train passed through lakes Lago Poopo and Lago Uru Uru. With the sun peaking over the mountains and is rays dusting the water, giving the rising mists an Avalon aura, the flocks of pink flamingos swirled in the air, declaring their ownership of mother nature. Amazing. Breathtaking.
Friday, January 06, 2006
Villazon, Bolivia - sort of...
Well, I'm in Boliva, after missing my first bus in Salta because the taxi driver took 30 mins to find the house where Alex's gf lives. So I ended up missing the bus and needing to buy another ticket. So, I'm here in Villazon, Bolivia and things are cheap, if you don't go to the tourist traps. I'm paying about $4.60 CAD for a room in a hotel. I'm in this city for 1 more day and tomorrow, I'm off to Oruso, the 1/2 way point to La Paz.
I think I'm gonna write everything on paper and then type it up...
Wednesday, January 04, 2006
Going to Bolivia
Today has been a lazy day. Didn't do much all morning and in the afternoon after Siesta, I went to the Archeology museum and the Anthropology museum where I got to see all sorts of old things and dead people and pictures of dead people. Very fascintating stuff. (www.antropologicao.gov.ar and www.maam.org.ar)
Now I'm researching for places to stay in Villazon, Bolivia. It's a border town and where I need to take the train to Oruro, Bolivia - the main stop to La Paz, Bolivia - or as far northwest this train goes. Once I'm there I have to figure out how to get to La Paz. I probably won't be hitching, but I hear the buses are crap. Well, we'll see. I hope there's a train that goes to La Paz, but it all remains to be seen at this point. That's the point of an adventure. Man, I love travelling!