Adios San Pedro

Excerpt from an email I wrote to some people I had met in San Pedro...

"I left this morning and stepped into the pitch dark. There were only the occasional roosters crowing in the background. Nobody around until I reached the INTERSECTION. There she was, Missy all curled up in a ball. She heard me and came by to say good bye. She sat with me at the top of the steps leading down to the dark docks until the first few people showed up. I clambered, shivering, onto the lancha and, with a put-put-put, it took me away from the seduction of San Pedro.

This is how it's done of course. The only way to leave is to be like a thief, wisping along with the stillness. It is this way. Once the energy from the people come to life with the surfacing of the sun, there is no escaping. And hence it is the people of San Pedro that has bound me to the memories that I have made there.

And interesting people there were. Ones I loved. Ones I hated. Ones that smelled bad. Ones that smelled worse. Ones I thought are wierd until I met the ones who are REALLY weird. I had met them all at Jarachik.

Chula, Chiquita, Hyna, belly dancing, solar tubs, 24 hr projectile vomiting (thankfully not mine), happy hours, poker games, destiny tarots, people watching and of course, let us not forget the infamous walk of shame. All equally soul damaging memories.

In closing, I would like to leave a dialogue overheard on one of the streets of this beloved town:
Quieres pan? No, gracias.
Pan de banan? No, gracias.
Pan de canela? No, gracias.
Pan de chocolate? No, gracias.
Pan de... NO! GRACIAS!"

Almost left

As things go around here, things don't happen until they happen. I tried to buy tickets to leave for Mexico yesterday but, they didn't have enough people leaving today so there's no shuttle bus. I will try again today. Maybe I'll make it out of here tomorrow... we'll see.

Tikal, Guatemala

Mayan temple ruins amidst a jungle in the Northern part of Guatemala.

I had different ideas about jungles before I came. I expected humid, hot, machete the crap out of greenery and shitloads of mosquitoes. Well, it was dry. The cutting down of shrubs had been done and I only got one mozzie bite. But it was hot. Hot as in you drink 2 litres of water before noon. Then you chill on a hammock until it’s cool enough to have dinner – at around 9 pm. Not complaining in the slightest!

Anyways, I got to the ruins at about 8:30 am and headed to this area recommended by this couple that I had met in Nicaragua and had run into in Flores. They showed me photos of animals they had seen at this one part of the ruins. I was looking forward to seeing animals, as they seem to avoid me, despite my best efforts. It took me 2 hours to walk there, as I was side tracked with the other temples on the way, and when I got there, the animals had already gone. On my way to the exit, I tailed a tour group and saw 2 spider monkeys. And this bird that made a most horrendous sound.

Two big temples stood in the main plaza. We are allowed to climb on of them, so I did. A quarter of the way up, my fear of heights hit. These are not stairs, you see. There is a rickety ladder attached to the side of the temple where you can see straight down. I gripped the handles on both sides and took the mofo on step by step. I go to the top, took necessary pics and headed down. Good thing it was still early, meaning: before tour groups; meaning: nobody else was on the steps shaking the thing by going up and down. I needed to sit for about 10 mins after to regroup my wits.

Despite my best efforts, I was not able to see all of the ruins, most of them but, not all. I spent six hours there. Good enough.

That same evening, I headed back to San Pedro on an overnight bus. The seats didn’t really recline and the big woman sitting next to me took up half my seat. This time it took 16 hours.

San Pedro la laguna. (3/29-4/24)

OK, much better, although filled with hippies, space cookies and property-owning Dutch men. One of the towns lining a volcano cater lake, this one seems to have the best mix with the Mayan community and gringos. However, this I coming from a person who hasn’t visited any of the neighbouring towns… I must also add that the gringos are not your typical camera toting, zip-off pants/shorts wearing, I-must-bring-all-my-make-up type people. Not saying that some of the people I’ve met are normal by any means.

There are a lot of new age, self healing, and spiritual enlightenment activities available here. (No I didn't participate in any of those.) From yoga to qi-gong to reiki and other classes abound. Hell, I gave belly dancing classes. I even fell in love. Chiquita, Hyena and Chula are some of the dogs that I wish I could bring home. Some of the folks I’ve met made my experience here. It’s the reason I stayed so long. Photos to come soonish.

Most of my time was passed by sitting in a hammock bullshitting with people until happy hour. Then it would be a drink, than a movie with chocolate cake and then to the expat watering hole. At Barrio, I would watch, and sometimes played, Texas Hold’em with the sharks, I managed to lose about 200Q’s (about $30 CAD) over the course of a week before I decided t stop putting these guys on my payroll. I’ve returned multiple times to watch though.

Needless to say, these three weeks have been a happy blur. I’ve also gained a few pounds. Surprising how inactivity can do that. Now I’ve gone and I’m sad but, most of those lovely folk have left to also continue their journey to other parts of the world.

Antigua, Guatemala (3/27-3/28)

Antigua, to me, is like Latin America on the Disney Channel. The colonial city centre is colourful and full of ritzy restaurants and bars. There is an immaculate church in front of an immaculate courtyard lined with trees and lovers on the benches. At night the church is illuminated at all the right arches to highlight its architecture. The market at the edge of the town is clean and lined with colourfully woven fabrics and intricately carved wooden figurines. This place is almost perfect. I could puke.

Flores, Guatemala

I got into Flores, one of the towns close to Tikal, at about 10:30 at night. I had been travelling for about 12 hours, half of those being on a chicken bus. When I arrived to the place I wanted to stay, Hostel Los Amigos, they were already full. So, I walked to the place the guy at the hostel recommended and knocked on the door. This surly middle-aged man opens the door. He tells me that rooms are $25 USD a night. That's about 8 nights stay at San Pedro. I said no thanks and knocked on the door of the hotel right next door. 40 Q's a night with a private bath. Much better. However, not good enough for me to stay any more nights. I moved to Los Amigos in the morning to be around other young travellers and to pay only 25Q's a night in a dorm.

I have finally left San Pedro

I am now in Flores and will be going to the Tikal ruins today. It is sweltering hot here and I am warm!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am looking forward to seeing these ruins. They-re in the middle of a jungle and apparently, animals are abound.

Going to the chiropractor

I have no clue as to if I spelt chiropractor correctly....

Anyways, I've decided to stay another week to see this doctor about my spine and knee. I had a session on Monday and my knee feels better already. Today he gave me some physio exercises to do. I've learnt this stuff before but have not kept up with practicing. So I will practice... Then he started on my back and neck. My sinuses feel great. I didn't realize I couldn't breathe before. I guess I had a lot of tension in my shoulders and neck. He also readjusted my right hip, which also made my knee feel better - actually, I couldn't feel my knee at all, which is a good thing.

I'll be heading out on Monday for sure this time.

Cutting dreds

I spent 2 hours cutting and seperating some guy's natural dred locks the other day in exchange for a dinner. Basically, he drank and partied so hard that his hair began to become extremly unkempt and matted. Think of a stray with long hair clumped together because of neglect. But he did wash his hair, thank God. Now he looks like a proper Irish gentleman - one that gets f-ed up on a 24 hour basis and hasn't been sober for more than 1 day since I met him 1.5 weeks ago.

Yes, I get to meet lots of interesting people. :)

I cried for the dogs

I walked into town today and noticed many things missing.
I walked into town yesterday and noticed a lot of sleeping dogs.
I walked into town the day before and noticed a lot of meandering stray dogs.

Yesterday was poison dog day.
Doses of poison placed in town
Keeps the population of strays defeated.
Not many years ago, it was dangerous for people to walk alone at night.
People can't afford to neuter their pets, so poison has been the cheap route.

I walked into town today and there were no dogs.

Shake your money maker

I'm gonna be in San Pedro for another week at least. I've committed myself to work. It feels weird working after so long of doing whatever the hell I want. My new gig is to teach belly dancing for 1 hour, Monday to Thursday. Man, the stressssssssssssssss.

I didn't think that this idea would have taken off, but I have had several inquiries and there are people interested. It looks like I'll be making at least my rent for last week in one week. No complaints there.

I had 2 rum and cokes yesterday and I didn't feel the alcohol at all. Not a good sign for my wallet. But now that I have a cold, I won't be going anywhere at night. Good, I guess, so that I can rest up for giving lessons. I practiced my lesson plan yesterday and I am sore today... so out of shape. But I can still do it!

Still at Lago Atitlan

Never made it out of bed in time to go to Copan. I pressed snooze about 3 times and I probably hit the wrong button at 5 am. I went to bed about 3 am. So I will hang out here for about another week and leave after Semana Santa to Copan. People tell me that most try to leave and just end up staying here. If I get a job, I may hang out here for a little longer. Someone suggested cutting hair. I can do that.....

Going to Copan ruins tmr

I'm in San Pedro la laguna in Nicaragua and will be going to Copan tomorrow. Not too much to report but lots of drinking for cheap (for me that's 2 beers) and great food for cheap. More laters,the shop is gonna close. I'll be back in this town next weekend for semana santa...

Going to Guatamala Monday

OK, I totally appreciate the term beach bum now. Waking up to the sound of the hammers from construction next door drives you straight to the beach in the morning. So I've been lazy but I finally have motivation to go to Guatamala on Monday. After the Lucha Libre match Sunday night, of course.

* Lucha Libre - 1) El Salvadorian wrestling; 2) grown men in costumes play fighting with gasoline fires to spook the audience. I got pics of Scotty Astro, the American wrestler on my link.